Look, Ma, no driver!

Look, Ma, no driver!

“This might sound extremely stupid,” I said to my friend Julie R. a few months ago when she was preparing to visit from Maryland, “but what would you think about taking a ride in a driverless car?”

I thought my idea was a bit dicey, but she was immediately on board.

Now, I’m not normally a risk-taker. I’m afraid of pressure washers and sparklers and I don’t jaywalk under any circumstances.

There was something about the mystique of an autonomous vehicle, though, that attracted me. So, as a first step, I downloaded the Waymo app back in April – well in advance of Julie’s visit. Then up popped a dismaying message: I’d been put on a waiting list.

Aaarrggh!

By then, Julie already had been bragging to her family and colleagues that she’d soon be zipping around San Francisco in a driverless car, so I felt terrible. Reddit users claimed that time spent on the waiting list could be up to 6 months. I despaired.

But, just a few days before Julie’s arrival, a notification unexpectedly pinged on my phone. I’d been taken off the waitlist! We could ride!

***

Over the past few years, Waymo and Cruise driverless cars have been skulking around San Francisco, mapping its streets and evaluating all the potential situations that could be encountered in a metropolitan area. Our neighborhood, in particular, was so swollen with these cars that I’d see up to a dozen of them while out walking our dog.

The initial tests – apparently about 1 billion overall – included, of course, a human sitting in the driver’s seat. Then last August both companies were cleared to begin driverless commercial passenger rides in San Francisco. Since then, Cruise was suspended after an accident, and although it’s been reinstated in Phoenix, it’s still waiting to hear about its San Francisco status.

Waymo, however, continues to operate in Los Angeles, Phoenix, and the San Francisco area, with Austin on the horizon. It makes more than 50,000 trips a week, and so far its record has been exceptionally clean. After having logged millions of miles, it has been involved in no incidents resulting in significant bodily injury.

Human drivers, of course, do not produce the same stats. In late 2023, Waymo compared its data from 7.13 million driverless miles to cars with drivers and found that humans were more than twice as likely to get into any accident reported to the police and 6.7 times more likely to be involved in injury crashes.

And of those 7+ million miles Waymo had driven, the only three injury-related incidents involved minor bumps and bruises and were really not the company’s fault. One car braked (as it should have) to avoid a downed branch on the road, and its passenger was not wearing the seatbelt (as he/she should have been) and sustained a minor injury. Another car was hit from behind by an SUV driver who left the scene. In the third incident, the Waymo detected a vehicle approaching too quickly from behind, accelerated to avoid a collision (as it should have), and got hit anyway.

(By way of comparison, Tesla’s Autopilot system, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, has caused 467 crashes resulting in 54 injuries and 14 deaths.)

To be fair, a couple of weeks ago the NHTSA opened an investigation into reports of 22 instances of “unexpected” behavior from Waymo vehicles. In some of those cases, the cars may have broken traffic safety laws. We’ll see what the investigation yields. Of course, the incidence of humans exhibiting strange driving behavior would be much, much higher. I see it every day.

It sounds like the Waymos might sometimes be confused by parking lots. (As am I, frankly.) According to techcrunch.com, “In a February incident in Arizona, the Waymo AV encountered a closed gate and, when turning to leave the area, backed into parking spikes and popped its tire. In another from November, a Waymo AV crashed into a chain separating part of a parking lot.” I can’t say that I’ve done those specific things, but I probably will at some point.

***

We decided to use our first Waymo to take us to the Top of the Mark bar at the Mark Hopkins hotel on Nob Hill.

As we head downtown, Julie R. sits up front, next to . . . no one

Summoning the car was ridiculously easy. The app knew where we were, so we merely input our destination and were given the price of the trip; the license plate of the car that would pick us up, as well as its location and the time it would arrive; the route we’d be taking; and the time we’d arrive at our destination. (The price, by the way, is about $4–5 more than a Lyft or Uber.)

All Waymo cars are electric Jaguar SUVs. When our Jag (as I like to call it) arrived, it pulled safely over to the curb in front of the house and waited. (Waymos will wait 5 minutes for their passengers. How polite!) My initials were displayed on the top of the car. (How sweet!) The door handles were flush with the car and could not be activated by anyone from the outside except me. I opened the app and hit an “Unlock” button. Voilà. The handles emerged and we piled in, filled equally with wariness and excitement. I won’t say that we squealed, but I may have giggled.

A maximum of four people can ride in these Waymos, but no one is allowed to be in the driver’s seat, and I imagine three in the back might be a bit tight. In our case, Julie S. and I rode in the back and Julie R. rode shotgun because she was an East Coast visitor and when would she get this chance again anytime soon?

Of course, the first thing we did was immediately buckle our seatbelts in anticipation of whatever kind of crazy crash would inevitably happen. While we were doing so, a disembodied woman’s voice (from Headquarters?) filled the car, reminding us unnecessarily to buckle up and letting us know – rather like a doctor’s warning that we might feel “discomfort” – that the ride might feel “futuristic.”

Well, that was an understatement! The car left the curb without a driver!

But our trepidation disappeared fast. I mean, really fast. In fact, I’ve never felt so safe with any driver in San Francisco, including myself!

We decided to call our car “Mo” – a truncation of “Waymo” that sounded genderless, as was our phantom chauffeur.

***

Mo navigated every conceivable urban challenge. It drove down three of the most difficult streets in the City – Market, Van Ness, and Divisadero – which are multi-laned, filled with buses and streetcar tracks, and bulging with pedestrians. It calmly stopped behind, then maneuvered around, scores of double-parked cars. It patiently and defensively handled bad drivers. And the pièce de résistance – it even safely pulled over when we heard a siren approaching!

A quick video taken from inside the moving, driverless car [video: Julie Scearce]

Waymo chooses its own route, and that’s the end of it. You have no choice about that. But you do have a choice of temperature, which you can set to between 59 and 83 degrees. And you have a choice of music, most of which was a variation of electronic elevator or dental office music. Or maybe Enya. But look hard enough and there’s some rock in there, thank goodness. You’re also allowed to connect a Spotify app.

I have to say, I’d never ridden in a Jaguar in my life and it was all so luxurious. The only thing we could have used were massages! Or, as my friend Maryl suggested, a cocktail bar and maybe a piped-in scent.

***

In case you’re wondering, under normal conditions the Waymo people cannot hear you. I like this a lot. In cabs or Lyfts, I typically feel awkward and just fall silent. In the Waymo, we felt free to chatter away. One word of caution, however – Waymo people can see you, so sex in the car is probably a terrible idea!

If there is any sign of trouble, the Waymo folks will turn on the audio and speak to you. We got stuck briefly once, but of course it wasn’t Mo’s fault. A bus suddenly pulled in front of us and caused us to partially block an intersection. Mo was concerned and somehow “phoned home,” at which point a Waymo employee immediately contacted us to take care of the problem. During those few moments, however, the bus pulled forward, Mo carefully drove around it, and all was well. How Johnny-On-The-Spot our car was, though, to call its mama at the first sign of trouble!

***

At the end of our ride, Waymo found a safe spot to pull over without doing anything that crazy human city-dwellers do. It reminded us not to forget our bags and phone, and it bid us adieu. There’s even an audible warning if a bicyclist approaches that advises passengers not to get out of the car just yet! Considering the number of cyclists who’ve been smacked by opening car doors, this is a terrific feature.

We were actually sad to leave the car and couldn’t wait for the ride home. I mean, we’d been lounging around like chauffeured glitterati!

***

The Top of the Mark is a gorgeous glass-walled penthouse lounge on the 19th floor of the Mark Hopkins hotel that has offered drinkers and diners a 360-degree view of the City since 1939. Soldiers during World War II would buy a bottle of liquor and leave it with the bartender so that the next guy from that squadron to visit the establishment could enjoy a drink – a practice that remained ongoing as long as whoever had the last sip bought the next bottle.

Paula and Julie S. at the Top of the Mark [photo: Julie Riffle]

The bar doesn’t open until 4:00, and there’s no point in getting to the hotel early because the elevators going all the way up to the Top of the Mark don’t operate until at least then. You have to time it just perfectly, and we did, getting the best corner seat in the house. And, surprisingly, the food and cocktails weren’t tourist-mediocre. The grilled shrimp tacos and margherita naan were terrifically tasty, and even the “Giant Pretzel” was to die for. As for cocktails, we mostly stuck with nostalgic basics – the San Francisco Sidecar, the Mark Old-Fashioned, and the Soul Train.

And it was so nice knowing that we could gaze at the City through a Sidecar buzz and then, at the push of a button, be smoothly escorted home by Mo!

***

I love most forms of transportation. Especially driving. For me there’s never been anything more exhilarating than a long stretch of open highway at night. I’d never want to give up my car.

I’m a good driver, too. After more than half a century behind the wheel, including 47 years in San Francisco, I’ve never had an at-fault accident or even so much as a ticket. I mean, there was the time I was driving two friends up to Lake Tahoe in my old Toyota Corolla, and it had been snowing, and I slammed on the brakes for an unknown reason and plowed into a snowbank, and my friend Diane Marino, who hails from New Jersey, shouted from the back seat, “All right, that’s it, get out and let me drive now, Miss Grew-Up-In-San-Jose!” Other than that, my record is clean.

But I know I’m not as good as I used to be. My focus isn’t as sharp, my reflexes not as keen.

I think Mo is a better driver than me.

***

The very next day, itching to jump into another driverless vehicle, we summoned Mo again to ferry us to Minnie Bell’s, a new soul food restaurant on Fillmore. Minnie Bell’s owner was taught her family recipes by her grandmother Lillie Bell and her great-aunt Minnie – all of them Fillmore residents. While chowing on crispy rosemary fried chicken, candied yams, mac and cheese, and cornbread, I sat facing a huge blown-up black and white wall photo of the same block in the 1960s, before the scourge of “urban renewal” decimated the neighborhood. What a tragic mistake that was.

Mural inside Minnie Bell’s, SF [photo: Julie Riffle]

Mo of course did a splendid job, including slowing down to 25 mph in school zones (what human even does that anymore?).

And we didn’t have to take multiple buses. We didn’t have to worry about parking. There was, in fact, ZERO STRESS!

***

Later that week, I ran into an acquaintance on the street and excitedly recounted our Waymo trips.

She rolled her eyes and told me, in all seriousness, that Waymo is capturing reams of data and that soon I’ll be forced to prove that I’m a “good girl” before Waymo “allows” me to ride.

Needless to say, I was bewildered.

And annoyed. I called her “Debbie Downer.” She just smirked.

I’m still not sure what she meant by proving that I’m a “good girl.” Did she mean that I’d have to pledge fealty to the company? Testify that I’m not a communist? Wha . . . ?

Waymo uses location tracking, of course, and can “see” not only its passengers but also external objects (thank goodness!). And driverless vehicles potentially could be hacked, just like anything else involving software. It’s definitely a cybersecurity risk that we need to recognize. (But it’s not just Waymo; the FTC is currently investigating all U.S. automakers – especially GM – over the reams of data they collect on drivers.)

I don’t think that passengers will ever have to succumb to any kind of litmus test, though. That’s entirely different and creepy and ridiculous and crazy-town.

So I’m going to continue riding with Waymo. Usually I take buses and streetcars; in fact, I hopped on the spasmodic 28 bus just a few days ago in search of a slice of Detroit-style pizza. But every so often I’m going to give Mo a ring.

And by the way, Mo – I’m not a member of the Communist Party and never have been! I swear!

***

COMMENTERS, PLEASE NOTE: WordPress is no longer supporting my particular page type and doesn’t seem to be asking commenters for their names, so everyone is identified as “Anonymous.” If you’re commenting (which I love!), please leave your name if you’d like me to know who you are!

***

Due to popular demand, I am including, at the end of each blog post, the latest random diary entries that I’ve been posting on Facebook for “Throwback Thursday.” These are all taken absolutely verbatim from the lengthy diaries I kept between 1970 and 1987.

September 5, 1975 [age 19]:

“Today at school was a bummer. My second class [upper division Philosophy] was horrible – we’re going to have to give three-minute oral presentations in there EVERY DAY, a prospect too horrible to endure, so I’m going to have to drop the damned thing and end up with only 12 units. I had my sophomore-year-acquired anxiety and typical voice shakiness when the instructor called my name, in fact could not even correct him when he asked if ‘Bacardi’ was the correct pronunciation, only nod in assent. What is WRONG with me?”

September 7, 1975 [age 19]:

“[My mom’s friend] Mrs. Rosales gave me a short haircut yesterday afternoon – I mean, cut off a PILE of it – and I liked it so much that I threw my arms around her and kissed her and then actually decided to go to the dance at the dorms. That was a mistake, because I have NO sense of rhythm or grace. I’d had a margarita with dinner to fortify me but it didn’t do the trick. The Japanese guy standing next to me [I lived in the International dorm], Yuki, asked me to dance and I danced HORRIBLY. Afterwards I let him hold my hand but I had more fun later when [my brother] Marc and [my friends] Joe and Ted came by and we sat around listening to the Animals and eating seeds. But now Yuki came by today and he thinks I’m his girlfriend! I don’t understand why guys expect you to be under their spell after such a short time spent together!”

September 13, 1975 [age 19]:

“[My brother] Marc and [my roommate] Sally and I went to the Pablo Cruise concert tonight in the [San Jose State] Student Union Ballroom. The first group we saw was so loud and utterly terrible that I couldn’t bear it except for the strange fact that the drummer was the drummer for Santana in the movie ‘Woodstock’ whose face hit me and seemed so beautiful and I thought I’d never see it again. The group was new and performing for the first time. We could tell. It then took ONE HOUR for Pablo Cruise to get the sound system right. They didn’t get onstage till 12:00, but the wait was worth it. Pablo Cruise was magnificent. They had four men, all talented, one who played grand piano so beautifully that tears came to my eyes.”

Note from 2024: By the way, the ex-Santana drummer’s name was Michael Shrieve – one of the greatest drummers of all time. By 1975 he was on his own, and I have no idea what band he was with at the time. Little did I know that 20 years later I would be interviewing him for Drum! magazine!

September 16, 1975 [age 19]:

“On Mondays and Wednesdays I have a Health Science class I picked up to give me a couple more units. The professor is quite old – probably in his sixties – with gray hair all pulled back so that he almost has a small ponytail at his neck. He is so uninteresting that we haven’t even gotten into actual health science yet; instead he’s been mildly asking us our views on illness. How ridiculous! The Tower List said that it’s a terribly easy course with an ‘A’ as an inevitable certainty. That’s all well and good, especially for me this semester because somehow and for some reason I find myself cutting every other class.”

September 18, 1975 [age 19]:

“I have a couple of weird events today to relate: First of all, in the parking lot this tremendously foxy guy came running up to my car as I was going through the lot and said he’d parked his car 4 days ago and if I’d cruise him around to find it I could have his parking space. Naively I complied, and his space turned out to be only one row up. Then when I went to my Novel class no one showed up, and I found out later that last Tuesday (which I cut) they’d decided to move to a new room! Then we went to see Christine Jorgensen speak, and then I put some Tequila in my root beer and I lost my shirt playing poker.”

Into that good night

Into that good night

Julie and I have celebrated a couple of milestones over the past few weeks. I’ll save the more monumental one for later and begin by noting that June 23 was our 10th official wedding anniversary. We’ve really been together more than 20 years, but it was June 23, 2008, when we scrambled to get married in the brief window of opportunity afforded us before California’s (short-lived, thankfully) Proposition 8 yanked that privilege away. The ceremony took place at City Hall on a Monday, which I know is an odd day but it all happened in a rush and people all around us were hastening to tie the knot. There was no time, really, to plan anything large and elaborate, so we gathered at a suite at the Fairmont Hotel for our small reception. I chose that establishment because to me it embodied old San Francisco, and I was grateful to the City in so many ways for the rich, fascinating, and happy life it had provided to me.

So my plan, 10 years later, was to surprise Julie with a return to the Fairmont.

***

It didn’t go exactly as planned, and I blame our dog Buster. Of course, he has no idea about his part in this. I had thought through all the details meticulously, calling the hotel directly instead of making online reservations just in case Julie were to see something on my computer, and arranging months in advance (by text) for our trusted dogwalker to board Buster. My chosen restaurant didn’t take reservations (ensuring that Julie couldn’t see any confirmations on our OpenTable account) but was open steadily from 11 a.m. on, so we could waltz in for a meal in the late afternoon and likely have no problem being seated. Tutto a posto, as they say in Italy. Everything was in place.

But not so fast.

Just a few days before June 23 arrived, our dogwalker’s husband informed her that they had a wedding to attend in southern California. And when she called to tell me the news, I idiotically answered the phone as Julie sat in the same room watching television. “Hi, Louise!” I said brightly before noticing Julie’s puzzled look. I then proceeded to splutter all kinds of nonsense into the phone as I tried to figure out a way to be covert. It soon became obvious to all concerned that the jig was up, and ultimately I had to confess my plan.

Of course, we then had to scramble to figure out where to leave our dog for the night. We don’t do kennels because Buster considers himself far too regal for cages. I thought of asking a neighbor but didn’t want to impose Buster’s quirky, barky little personality on anyone.

Finally, in desperation, I texted our former dogwalker – who now lives in New Orleans! – and bless her heart she did some long-distance liaison work and found us a substitute. All was well again.

***

For those of us who have lived in San Francisco for most or all of our lives, the City these days can be a difficult place to navigate, both physically and emotionally. Its changes have been monumental. I’m going to save my thoughts on that for another day, though, because for our anniversary I wanted us to honor, cherish, and celebrate some of the very oldest, and most respectable, places in town. Checking into the Fairmont would begin our tribute.

Flags outside of Fairmont - from Fairmont site

The Fairmont is not the oldest hotel in San Francisco – the Palace Hotel holds that distinction – but it is one of the few grand pre-Earthquake survivors. When the Big One hit in April of 1906, the building’s structure was complete, the rooms were about to get their finishing touches, and the hotel was about to open its doors to customers for the first time. The Fairmont was one of the “Big Four” hotels on Nob Hill that were named after three of the era’s Big Four railroad tycoons who built the Central Pacific Railroad: Leland Stanford (the Stanford Court), Mark Hopkins (the Intercontinental Mark Hopkins), Collis Potter Huntington (the Scarlet Huntington), and Charles Crocker (Crocker didn’t get a hotel named after him, although what is now the Westin St. Francis was supposed to be called the Crocker Hotel). The Fairmont had no ties with the railroad business but was named for sisters Jessie and Virginia Fair, the original owners who wanted to build a monument to their father. Nob Hill, around which all four hotels were built, was so named because the Big Four railroad men had been given the moniker “The Nobs.” (A nob is a nabob, or “a person of great wealth or prominence,” according to Merriam-Webster. Remember when former Vice-President Spiro T. Agnew referred to the “nattering nabobs of negativism”?)

After_earthquake_and_fire_(1906)_(14576452280)
The Fairmont stands tall amidst the rubble, 1906

Anyway, although everything around it was reduced to rubble after the Great Earthquake and Fire, the Fairmont Hotel stood like a heroic, indestructible symbol of the resilience of San Francisco. As the writer Gertrude Atherton said at the time, “I forgot the doomed city as I gazed at The Fairmont, a tremendous volume of white smoke pouring from the roof, every window a shimmering sheet of gold; not a flame, nor a spark shot forth. The Fairmont will never be as demonic in its beauty again.”

Stanford White
Stanford White

Before I leave the Fairmont’s story, I must note how San Francisco’s colorful history was exemplified in the refurbishing of the damaged hotel. The first choice for an architect to repair and redecorate the Fairmont was one Stanford White, a New Yorker with a ridiculous moustache who nevertheless was well respected for his use of Beaux Arts design principles. The moustache did not, apparently, prevent his being a bit of a tomcat because he was dining pleasantly during a show at Madison Square Garden on the evening of June 25, 1906, when he was shot dead by millionaire Harry Thaw over White’s relationship with Thaw’s wife. Ironically, the murder occurred during the show’s finale, “I Could Love a Million Girls.”

Julia Morgan-2
Julia Morgan

With Mr. White permanently out of commission, the hotel’s owners – quite progressively – then brought on Julie Morgan, who in 1904 had become the first woman licensed to practice architecture in California. Another aficionado of the Beaux-Arts style, she was later to become the principal designer for Hearst Castle. Morgan was apparently chosen because of her knowledge of earthquake-resistant, reinforced concrete construction, and after supervising every aspect of the job for 12 months with very little sleep, she was able to preside over the reopening of the Fairmont exactly a year after the earthquake.

The place is spectacular. The Charter of the United Nations was drafted and signed at the Fairmont in 1945, so the flags of the signatory countries still fly to this day at the front entrance. The grand and flamboyant lobby welcomes guests with ornate Corinthian pillars, marble floors, and gilded ceilings. The hotel’s Venetian Room is the lush showroom in which Tony Bennett first sang “I Left My Heart in San Francisco.” The Laurel Court restaurant sits under three domes and is a dashing remnant of the past. The tiki-themed Tonga Room & Hurricane Bar, a charming blend of kitsch and sophistication, is just a barrel of fun, with coconut-sized tropical drinks, an indoor lagoon and floating stage, occasional “rainstorms” complete with thunder and lightning, and a dance floor that was originally the deck of the S.S. Forrester, one of the last of the tall ships that sailed the south seas. And the city views from the Tower rooms are, in a word, stunning. Outside lie the Golden Gate and Bay Bridges, the vast cityscape of San Francisco and, right below your bedroom window, little cable cars climbing halfway to the stars.

051_2018_06-23_10th anniversary_Night view from Fairmont room 18
View from our room

***

Dinner that afternoon would be at the Tadich Grill, and we could get there easily by cable car. Because both of us are generally ravenous by 3:30 p.m., I knew that the restaurant’s no-reservations policy would not be a problem, even in the middle of tourist season.

026_2018_06-23_10th anniversary_Tadich Grill sign_Paula

Tadich Grill, founded in 1849, is the oldest restaurant in California. It also happens to be two doors down from 260 California Street, where I worked for much of the 1980s. My very first job out of college had been as a production assistant at Harper & Row Publishers, but when the parent company moved its textbook division back to New York, I was suddenly out of a regular job. Thus began my seven-year stint as a freelance copy editor, during which time I worked periodically at the Institute for Contemporary Studies (ICS), a nonprofit think tank and publishing house. This was during the halcyon days of working in downtown San Francisco. We’re talking short hours, midday martinis, spirited political discussions, expensive vendor lunches, and lots of drama among us young employees. Every day at 11:30 a.m., like clockwork, the thick, smoky aroma of Tadich’s grilled steak made its way through the open windows. It was exquisite and torturous and a sensory memory I’ll never forget.

Tadich is primarily a seafood restaurant, though, and Julie and I both ordered fish in one form or another. Julie chose the seafood sauté and I was reminded of the first time we had dinner together 23 years ago, at McCormick & Kuleto’s in Ghirardelli Square. Although she is from Kentucky and had never eaten a mollusk in her life, she ordered the seafood cioppino, threw on a bib, and dug with gusto into a messy bowl of Dungeness crab, mussels, clams, squid, shrimp, and who knows what all. It was most impressive.

I love the old, rich look of the Tadich Grill. Dark wood fills the interior. A mahogany bar extends almost the length of the restaurant. The booths are set back into individual dark alcoves that must have seen many a clandestine meeting of one sort or another. The lamps are antique brass. Everything is polished. And on each white-clothed table, waiting for diners, sit a bowl of lemon quarters and a basket piled high with authentic, chewy sourdough – not the namby-pamby stuff that supposedly passes for bread these days.

TadichFry-800x496
Hangtown Fry

I pondered ordering one of the local specialties, like the Crab Louie or perhaps the Hangtown Fry (an omelet made with bacon and oysters), which has been on the menu for almost 170 years. Legend has it that the dish was created when a successful Placerville gold prospector asked his hotel proprietor to serve him the most expensive meal possible. The three priciest foods at the time were eggs, bacon, and oysters, which had to be brought to Placerville on ice from San Francisco, more than a hundred miles away.

Ultimately, though, I settled on my perennial favorite, petrale sole.

“Would you recommend the mesquite-grilled or the pan-fried?” I asked our white-coated, black-tied waiter.

He gave me a smirk. “Do you want healthy,” he asked, “or do you want tasty?”

***

025_2018_06-23_10th anniversary_Cable car_Julie, PaulaTo cap off the evening it seemed appropriate that we hop a cable car back up California street to the Top of the Mark, the glass-walled penthouse lounge on the 19th floor of the Mark Hopkins hotel. San Francisco’s cable cars are part of the last manually operated cable car system in the world. Only three lines remain, and the California Street line, established in 1878, is the oldest. We clanged our way towards Nob Hill, rumbling and lurching along the track. It’s a hard job to manually operate the levers controlling the car’s movement along the cables. It was an uncommonly balmy evening, and the gripman pulled and sweated and cursed.

Since 1939, the Top of the Mark with its 360-degree view of the city has been a destination for tourists, entertainers, sailors, soldiers, and natives. Some say that during World War II, soldiers would buy a bottle of liquor and leave it with the bartender so that the next guy from that squadron to visit the establishment could enjoy a drink – a practice that remained ongoing as long as whoever had the last sip bought the next bottle.

A man and woman with thick Georgia accents sat behind us. He was dressed rakishly, and she wore a hat. “We had no idea we’d be here in San Francisco on such a special weekend,” the woman said, warmly. It was Gay Pride weekend, but Julie and I had stayed away from all the events this year. We go to the parade every once in a while, but it takes fortitude to stand on Market Street for 8 hours. I’m not kidding about the time frame. Sometimes half an hour goes by between floats. I don’t know what it is but gay people can be extremely disorganized.

Top-of-the-Mark-56Julie ordered a tropical cocktail called the “Bay Bridge” and my choice was the “Indonesia Nu Fashioned,” a mixture of Woodford Reserve Distillers Select Bourbon (my nod to Kentucky), dark crème de cacao, and Angostura bitters served on the rocks. I gave it a stir and gazed outside at the breathtaking view.

“I wish I were wild and elegant like that Georgia lady,” I said, a little regretfully.

The sky was clear over Nob Hill as we headed across the street and back to the Fairmont, but fog was drifting in slowly from out past the Golden Gate. Julie said that to her the fog in San Francisco is like a blanket, always there to tuck us in at night.

***

Three weeks have passed, and today marks the other milestone for us.

Today is the first day of Julie’s retirement.

Last Friday – her final workday ever – we went downtown, dropped off her work computer, turned in her badge, and drove out to the beach to have lunch at the Cliff House, another venerable SF institution. It’s a place where we’ve celebrated significant events in our lives. We’d gone there after we applied for our marriage license, on the day the CA Supreme Court granted us that privilege. We’d eaten there on the day I retired, nearly 5 years ago. And now this. A comfortable fog hung over the surfers. Julie said it was perfect.

There is, of course, no telling what the future has in store, and whether this new freedom of ours will last for one day or 20 years. With the liberation of age comes the restriction of physical changes. The body is often sore for no reason. Despite all efforts and all manner of exercise and healthy eating, the bones grow tired and the muscles get weaker.

There are times when I rue the fact that I now glide through my days unnoticed. Darn it, I want to be appreciated, respected, and even heralded, like the Fairmont, Tadich Grill, the Top of the Mark, the Cliff House, and the cable cars that manage to keep on rumbling up the hills.

Maybe I am like the San Francisco of old. Some of me is weathered, some of me is gone completely, but other parts still stand resolutely. And there are promising days ahead. There will be more causes for celebration. There will be good food and wine and laughter. There will be beauty and unexpected discoveries. There are trains to be taken and there is music to be played.

A new chapter starts now. I want healthy, but I also want tasty. I will not go gently into that good night.

2018_07-13_Julie's retirement day_Julie at Cliff House window 2
At the Cliff House, Julie ponders what on earth she’ll do in retirement

***

Due to popular demand, I am including, at the end of each blog post, the latest random diary entries that I’ve been posting on Facebook for “Throwback Thursday.” These are all taken absolutely verbatim from the lengthy diaries I kept between 1970 and 1987.

2/21/71:

“I went to see LOVE STORY today and was a bit disappointed, mainly because of the buildup I had been getting from other people. When the girl died, I cried one tear and that’s all. It wasn’t that good. Then I went to Colleen’s and they took me out to eat at MacDonald’s. Now, I am sitting here sniffling as the after-effect of the hay fever attack I got over there. Know why? Well, because they have lots of hay, of course.”

2/1/71:

“What has been occupying my thoughts partly lately has been a sorry feeling for my teachers – three in particular. Mrs. Dossa is one. We make fun of her because of her unwashed, uncombed hair and her unkempt clothes, especially her lack of a sense of humor. Well, it is really not her fault. And she really tries to teach us everything and let us enjoy it. But we just complain and don’t respond. She seems really interested in our American Lit projects but all we do is . . . well, nothing. Same with Mr. Ferguson. To make history less boring he even lets us try simulation games. But we just say we hate them. He took it personally and said, ‘Well, I thought it was kind of interesting.’ I felt sorry for him and hoped we could continue our game. And nobody listened to our poor devoted P.E. substitute.”

1/29/71:

“We got report cards [today]. . . . I wrote ‘excellent student’ next to my A+ P.E. grade and [my P.E. teacher] Azama got kind of mad.”

1/23/71:

“Since I am in such a sorry state of affairs [I had a cold] I doubt that I will go to church tomorrow. But we haven’t gone in such a long time. I keep begging them to take me to Confession but we never seem to get around to it. We didn’t even go on CHRISTMAS! I am ashamed to go to Confession and say that I haven’t been to Mass the past 106 times.”